Is blue the horological color of the year?
From small, independent brands like De Bethune and Czapek, to industry giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and even Patek Philippe, one thing is undeniable: blue is here to stay. Ranging from classic components like dials to daring and unexpected novelties; blue can be seen across the board in different hues, textures & materials in 2024.
Independent watchmakers bet on blue
Czapek makes waves... Released during Watches & Wonders 2024, the 'Goutte d'Eau' (drops of water) features a grand feu enamel dial that creates a mesmerizing effect: as the watch moves, an optical illusion is created - as when a raindrop falls on the still surface of a pond, ripples appear to radiate out from the seconds sub-dial. The intricate use of blue shades in the enamel creates a beautiful 3D effect, giving this blue dial dimension and depth. Completed with a blue strap, this piece demonstrates a masterful use of the color, making it a wearable fashion statement.
Challenging innovation is the brand’s signature color
In the realm of watchmaking, De Bethune has cemented its reputation as a trailblazer, with the color blue standing as a hallmark of their distinctive brand identity. However, the DB Kind of Grande Complication, ref. DBK2TV2, transcends mere tradition, emerging as a testament to the profound significance of blue within the brand's ethos. Crafted with meticulous precision in L’Auberson, it showcases the visionary genius of Denis Flageollet and his dedicated team. Featuring a staggering array of eight complications, including a perpetual calendar, retrograde moon phase, and an ultra-light tourbillon in blued titanium, this watch is a marvel of horological ingenuity. Yet, it is the captivating azure backdrop that elevates this masterpiece to unparalleled heights. Serving as a canvas for the intricate dance of hours and minutes under a starry blue sky, the color blue emerges not just as a choice but as a symbol—an emblem of excellence, innovation, and the enduring legacy of De Bethune in the watchmaking world.
Audemars Piguet: Seamlessly blends tradition with unexpected brilliance
Arguably, the very first big blue release of the year occurred when Audemars Piguet collaborated with American singer, guitarist, and watch collector John Mayer to produce the latest version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar limited edition, featuring the Manufacture’s self-winding Calibre 5134. And what made this collaboration even more unexpected was its glimmering blue dial. The brand described this intricate composition as 'A new scintillating dial finish gives life to John Mayer’s vision of a crystal sky.' The embossed motif is composed of irregular shapes resembling crystals, whose sharp angles and facets add depth and brilliance to the piece. To achieve this level of detail and complexity, the stamping die was created atom by atom through a metal deposition process known as electroforming.
A unique smoked blue dial created by a complex Physical Vapour Deposition process
The new iteration of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin (RD#3) in 37 mm takes inspiration from the two 39 mm and 37 mm RD#3 models in stainless steel released in 2022 but is offered for the first time in 18-carat white gold. The blue shade is obtained by Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD), whereas the smoked effect seen on the periphery is achieved by meticulously spraying black varnish while the dial is rotating.
Patek Philippe: Brings back two models in an unexpected shade of blue
What exactly is 'opaline blue-gray'? Despite its description as a rather mundane and uninspiring shade of blue, it's the chosen hue by Patek Philippe to reintroduce two beloved models. Firstly, the Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164 is offered in its first white gold version, whose opaline blue-gray dial is adorned with the emblematic Aquanaut pattern, while the integrated composite strap matching the dial color features a patented white gold fold-over clasp.
But most shockingly, the long-awaited Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph was also released in a new white gold version with the same opaline blue-gray dial. And completed with none other than a 'blue-gray denim-patterned calfskin strap' with a white gold Nautilus fold-over clasp. The polarizing choice of denim for the strap might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it undeniably ties the piece together, and Patek brings forth the question: doesn't everything go with denim?
Rolex: From glacier blue to deep sea hues
While Rolex's utilization of blue may not be groundbreaking, nor were the models unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, the introduction of blue dials in their most well-received models is noteworthy.Take, for instance, the Perpetual 1908, now presented in 950 platinum featuring a glacier blue dial—a hue reserved exclusively for timepieces crafted from this prestigious metal. Adorned with a delicate 'grain of rice' motif, the dial captivates as light dances across its contours, offering a mesmerizing display of reflections with every movement of the wrist.
The new Deepsea model is designed to “illuminate even the bottom of the sea.” This timepiece is the very first Rolex watch in 18-karat yellow gold designed for deep diving. It harmoniously mixes blue tones and presents a unique combination of materials: gold is combined with ceramic or RLX titanium elements. However, what truly sets this piece apart is the striking juxtaposition between the deep blue dial and bezel against the radiant yellow gold elements and bracelet.
In the realm of horology, the enduring appeal of blue persists as a cherished and timeless favorite among enthusiasts and collectors alike. Throughout the diverse spectrum of watch brands, each has contributed distinct and innovative interpretations of this beloved hue, ranging from traditional to boldly avant-garde designs, thus highlighting the remarkable versatility inherent in the color blue. As we cast our gaze back upon the year 2024, it becomes unmistakably clear that blue has firmly established itself as an indispensable element within the rich tapestry of watchmaking heritage. Its presence resonates with an air of sophistication and refinement, evoking a sense of timeless elegance that transcends fleeting trends.